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Smoothing path to Chinese palate
www.theaustralian.com.au by Pia Akerman 2010-7-21 15:12:02   

 

 

   

Chinese wine merchants Serena Cen, left, and Jacinta Yan sample a selection at Jacob's Creek, Barossa Valley. Picture: Kelly Barnes

Untill recently, it was not uncommon for Chinese drinkers to dilute wine with cola or other soft drinks to soften the taste.

Arthur Wang, wine lover and marketing employee of Pernod Ricard China, has seen that habit disappear with increased wealth and better wine appreciation.

"Now people know that is not the right way," said Mr Wang. "People are getting more sophistication."

Mastering the Chinese palate, which favours soft tannins, is seen as the key for Australian winemakers looking to break a French stranglehold on the potentially huge Chinese wine market.

Larger brands have been leading the charge, with Jacob's Creek releasing a range of seven wines carefully crafted for Chinese tastes and flying 600 of their Chinese staff and distributors to South Australia to learn about the brand's Barossa Valley roots.

Bernard Hickin, chief winemaker for Orlando Wines, studied industry research on Chinese palates before deciding how to craft the China-specific range, Winemaker's Selection.

"We looked particularly at the blending of the regions to create an aroma and flavour profile that we think suits the China market," he said. "Vibrant and fresh varietal flavours; very soft tannins in the reds.

"That suits the palates of the Chinese and also the cuisine."

About 85 per cent of wine and spirits consumed in China is enjoyed over a meal, and Jacob's Creek is keenly focused on breaking into restaurant wine lists.

Taking the Chinese visitors through a tasting yesterday, Mr Hickin stressed Bordeaux comparisons with the Winemaker's Selection, and described suitable food pairings.

For aspirational Chinese drinkers, Bordeaux has long been synonymous with good wine -- even if the drinker wasn't sure what exactly was in the bottle or why it was worth the money.

"Consumers are not sophisticated in wine consumption but they know Bordeaux is good, No 1 in wines," said Mr Wang. "But things are changing.

"We know Bordeaux is the origin of wines, but the new world wines can offer more for Chinese consumption: lighter, soft tannins, easy to drink."

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