TERROIR is a much discussed and rarely agreed upon topic. The term encompasses all those elements which lead to the sense of place that certain wines reveal and is one of those issues that will have the wine geeks arguing until the wee small hours.

Some feel that man must play a role. Others believe it should be limited solely to the usual characteristics of soil, climate, aspect and so forth. A fascinating variation to the debate was offered a year or so ago when the concept of cuisine as part of terroir was suggested. On the face of it, this seems laughable but with a little thought, less so.

It is surely no coincidence that the wines of so many regions match the local foods so well. The theory is almost Darwinian in that over the years, the wines that did suit regional dishes were preferred by diners and so survived. Those that did not went all dodo. Bordeaux and lamb, muscadet and oysters, Sancerre (sauv blanc) and goats cheese are just some of the examples. It applies less in the New World as we have not had the time to develop the matches but it will be fascinating to see if it works.

It is fair to say that the emerging Asian wine industry may just follow this path. Wine from Asia? There are now around 800 wineries in 12 countries. Half are in China, a quarter in Japan, and around 50 in India, with others in Thailand, Bhutan, Burma, Cambodia, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Korea, Vietnam and Taiwan.

Partly, this is driven by an attempt to replicate what is seen as one of the best aspects of Western culture but also to provide alternatives for their various cuisines from the usual beer and spirit merry-go-round.

Production is driven by brewers in several cases but the wineries that are being developed are sizeable. On one hand, they will challenge the market share of those countries exporting to the region; on the other, as they promote interest in wine, more and more locals will take to it, and those same exporters should have increased opportunities.

What is exciting is that it will be a real boost to food and wine matching to watch this development, as we will get a real insight into what the locals see as the wines best suited to their cuisine, not what we in the West impose.

Expect Chinese wines to feature heavily at this year's Olympic Games in Beijing. Cabernet sauvignon has been extensively planted, along with merlot and chardonnay. Also, grenache seems to be popular among the wineries. Two local varieties, rose honey (a red) and crystal (a white) are still extensively produced. Although considered local, it is believed that both made the journey from France many years ago and that both are now extinct there. It shouldn't be long before we will hopefully see some examples on our bottleshop shelves.

In the meantime, we'll have to make do with the old standards. As with any food and wine matching, I find weight and balance the keys. Light wine with light food and so on. With Asian food, there is almost a Pavlovian response when it is mentioned; Gewurz or some other spicy wine. That is fine but there is much more scope. Of course, if the chef has too heavy a hand with the spices and chillies, then heading for the beer, water or possibly chilled milk are the best options. If the spice is strong but not overwhelming and you are keen on a red wine, pinot noir, for reasons I am sure a research chemist could explain, seems the grape that best handles the heat. This seems surprising, as it can be so delicate. If you are keener on a white, think outside the box and try sparkling, especially one based on pinot noir.

Also remember that Asian food is an incredibly varied cuisine. Indian curries, the huge variations across China, delicate Japanese dishes (and a fino sherry is often an amazingly good match for some Japanese dishes), Indonesian satays and so much more. Think of the extraordinary array of different ingredients across the region. There simply is no golden bullet. You will need to consider each dish.

A few basic rules, keeping in mind weight and balance. Tannic wines tend to be out of place here (yet the region's love of great Bordeaux is well known). Big tannic cabs, shiraz (though the softer styles work better), merlots and their ilk are going to struggle and quite possibly look attenuated. Same for big chardonnays. Forget them. If you are a fan of chardy, go for the leaner styles, especially those with good acidity. The crisp, even biting acidity is what makes wines such as sauvignon blanc, riesling and even some of the better pinots gris such good matches.

German rieslings, with their elevated levels of sweetness, can add an extra dimension to the dishes. Closer to home, think of Kiwi rieslings. They have that dynamite acidity, wonderful aromas and gentle sweetness that works so well.

If matching the exotic character of certain Asian dishes, look for aromatic styles. It is another reason why pinot noir and gewurztraminer are so often chosen.

This is far from a definitive guide but should work well as a starting point. The best advice is to take this further and to experiment for yourself.

It is a fascinating journey.