New wine shops open in Shanghai, and in many other metropolitan areas, almost everyday. It is estimated that there are at least 40 specialised wine stores in Shanghai alone and, more surprisingly, as many as 2,000 wine importers in China. As both numbers sprout like mushrooms after rain, there is no reliable data to document this growth. However, statistics on bottled wine imports recently released by the Chinese customs' authorities reveal that the Middle Kingdom is in wine fever.

French wine imports at 15,517,251 litres in the twelve months to the end of 2007 more than doubled their 2006 values, which were already twice those of 2005 (3,424,764l). Although not quite as strong in growth, but nonetheless soaring by 90%, Australia remained in second place on the charts with a total volume of 8,783,927 litres, again more than four times the figure for 2005 (2,260,360l).

Of the major suppliers, Italy showed with a 177% increase to 5,113,181 litres the strongest growth and sold seven times more wine to China than two years ago (719,733l). Spain with 3,399,425, Chile with 2,645,432, the United States with 2,358,539 and Germany with 1,127,856 litres round out the list of the seven countries that shipped more than a million litres of wine to China last year. Completing the top ten were Argentina, Portugal and South Africa, in that order.

With a market share of 37% by volume, France enjoys a privileged position in China. By value, French wines are even stronger - and now account with $82.7m (€56.3m) for 45% of all imports, compared to 19.8% for Australia and 9.7% for Italy. The average price for a litre of French wine rose by 25% in 2007 to $5.33 (€3.63), far about the national average. The Chinese are still very French in their likes and, in particular, very Bordeaux. No matter in which shop, French wines are a must - and are generally the best sellers.

It is not clear when - or if - this fever will cool, but given the size of the population, which still drinks only a small glass of imported wine each year, there is still room for considerable growth. To reach an annual consumption of only one bottle of foreign wine per head, imports would have to rise another 25 fold.

In that mix, there is a place for all nationalities, as each has a flavour profile to match the various Chinese cuisines.